Adventures
A running log of trips, most recent first.
Dania — Queen of the Valley
One more day in the park. A ranger mentions a name — Dania, a female puma, three cubs. Then the valley goes quiet, the guanacos vanish, and she appears.
Guanacos of Torres del Paine
A puma-tracking trip that never found its puma instead delivered an evening with guanacos — mothers, newborns, and a herd moving along a ridge with the towers of Torres del Paine glowing behind them.
Sunrise at Wharariki Beach
A 3am alarm set for the Milky Way turned into forty-five minutes of fire-colored sky, golden sea stacks, and a sprint to the sea caves before the tide closed in.
Ice Hiking on Perito Moreno Glacier
Crampons, crevasses, and a glowing blue ice cave on one of the most alive glaciers on Earth — plus a crampon failure that made the walk back unforgettable for the wrong reasons.
Why I Keep Going Back
On suffering voluntarily, getting older, and the Alps calling again. 110 miles around Mont Blanc, hut to hut — three days of rain, then wildflowers, a lost afternoon in Courmayeur, and a sunrise at Rifugio Bonati that made the whole trip worth it.